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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. But, tucked high among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.